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The Discount Gold Exchange
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DIAMOND JEWELRY
BUYER'S GUIDE
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The following information is provided to assist our Client's in becoming more knowledgeable when comparing and purchasing Diamond Tennis Bracelets, Engagement rings, Anniversary rings, diamond Eternity rings, three stone rings, diamond heart pendants, diamond earrings, and other fine diamond jewelry, and to help ensure that they will always receive top value for their hard earned dollars. However, it is beyond the scope of this material to make the reader an expert in grading diamonds, and Clients are therefore encouraged to further expand their knowledge from other reliable sources.
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To View DIAMOND JEWELRY ITEMS, Click On the following links.
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GOLD MOUNTING FUNDAMENTALS
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GOLD MOUNTINGS. Because 24 karat, pure gold (24/24 = 100% gold) is very soft, wears away very rapidly with ordinary use, and is considerably more expensive than harder gold alloys; it is rarely used for making gold jewelry. 22 karat gold (22/24 = 91.7% gold) is also of poor durability and is therefore also less suitable for making gold jewelry than harder alloys. To be legally marketed in the United States as gold, gold jewelry must be at least 10 karat.
1. Popular alloys that offer increased strength (hardness) and extended wearability are 18k (18/24 = 75.0%), 14 karat gold jewelry (14/24 = 58.3%), and 10k (10/24 = 41.7%), with such designations usually being stamped on the clasp or inside edge or rim of the gold jewelry item. Gold jewelry items may also be stamped .999 (24k), .917 (22k), .750 (18k), .583 (14k), or .417 (10k) as another way of indicating their karat rating fineness (common in Europe). Though it is relatively unusual today, older items may be stamped "p" or plumb (e.g. 14kp), indicating that they are exactly the 24k, 22k, 18k, 14k, or 10 karat designation.
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2. Price Comparisons, everything else being directly comparable (e.g. link shape, mm or gauge size, gram weight, length, and manufacturing process) 18k gold will be approximately 30% more expensive than 14k gold jewelry and 80% more expensive than 10k gold; and 14k gold jewelry will be approximately 40% more expensive than 10k gold.
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3. Multi-colored gold (yellow, white, pink, green, etc.) is produced by combining different percentages of alloy metals (primarily copper, silver, nickel, and zinc) with gold, but still retains its full 18, 10, or 14 karat gold rating.
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4. Gram Weight. 24k, 22k, 18k, 14k, or 10k gold is weighed in grams and troy ounces (31.1 grams), and though it is becoming more popular, it is still relatively unusual for retail merchants to sell gold jewelry by the gram. While the karat fineness is always well marked, the Client is often left in the dark as to the gold jewelry item's weight, making an informed decision as to the value offered nearly impossible. As a general rule, if the merchant can't or won't state the gram weight of a diamond bracelet setting, purchasers should exercise greater caution when buying from that merchant.
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5. Design Considerations. The setting's design or link shape can make a significant difference in the diamond bracelet's cost for bracelets with lower total diamond carat weights. However once the total carat weight has exceeded two (2) carats the proportionate value of the setting to the total cost drops off very sharply.
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DIAMOND BUYING FUNDAMENTALS
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DIAMONDS No discussion about buying diamonds in any form is complete without discussing the classic "FOUR C's" of: Clarity, Color, Cut, and Carat weight. Understanding such criteria as diamond grading reports and the factors effecting a diamond's cost (price) will also prove beneficial for increasing the buyer's confidence level that he or she is making a sound decision.
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1. Clarity. Clarity measures the relative visability of external blemishes or internal imperfections (inclusions) naturally occurring within a diamond as evaluated by a qualified gemologist. The clarity scale (GIA) is divided into six primary categories:
a. Flawless (F or FL) - no discernable surface blemishes or inclusions visible when viewed at 10x magnification,
b. Nearly Flawless (IF) - insignificant surface blemishes and no internal defects visible at 10x magnification,
c. Very, Very Slightly included (VVS-1 & VVS-2) - extremely difficult to very difficult to find surface blemishes or minute inclusions at 10x magnification, but can be more readily seen at 10x once located at 20x magnification,
d. Very Slightly included (VS-1 & VS-2) - difficult to somewhat easy to find surface blemishes or minor inclusions at 10x magnification,
e. Slightly Included (SI-1 & SI-2) - easy to very easy to find surface blemishes or readily noticeable inclusions at 10x magnification, but will usually appear to be "eye clean" without magnification, though some stones will show slight inclusions when viewed from the side against a white background (note: GIA does not recognize an SI-3 clarity grade),
f. Imperfect (I-1, I-2, I-3) - surface blemishes or obvious inclusions are somewhat difficult, easy, or very easy to find with the naked eye, especially after being located with 10x magnification. I-2 inclusions effect either the diamond's aesthetic appearance (beauty) or durability (potential for cracking), I-3 inclusions effect both.
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Diamond prices increase dramatically as clarity category lines are crossed. However, SI clarity is generally considered to be the best compromise between cost and appearance, providing excellent value for stones of G-I color and proper proportions (cut). Buyers should exercise caution when making purchases from jewelry merchants who don't know or won't state the clarity of the diamonds offered. Buyers should also be aware that due to the lower value per carat of the small diamonds that commonly make up a diamond bracelet that these diamonds are less tightly graded and broader clarity range (two grades, such as SI-1 to SI-2, or I-1 to I-2) specifications are therefore not uncommon.
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2. Color. The color scale is used to evaluate a diamond's internal tint and plays a significant factor in determining its price, colorless being the most desirable. Color is best evaluated in natural light, as high intensity artificial lighting can make the diamond appear to be of a better color grade than it actually is. Diamonds should also be examined for fluorescence, as blue photoluminescence will also make the diamond appear to be of a better color grade. GIA Color grades range from:
a. Colorless (D-F) - tint is nearly undetectable to the unaided, trained eye even when compared to the white standard,
b. Near Colorless (G-H) - tint is almost undetectable to the trained eye, but apparent when compared to the white standard,
c. Near Colorless (I-J) - trace of tint is just detectable to the trained eye, but noticeably apparent when compared to the white standard,
d. Faint Yellow to Faint Brown (K-M) - tint is apparent to the trained eye and readily apparent when compared to the white standard,
e. Very Light Yellow to Very Light Brown (N-R) - tint is readily apparent to the unaided, trained eye without comparing to the white standard, and
f. Light Yellow to Light Brown (S-Z) - tint is obvious to the unaided, trained eye without comparing to the white standard.
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Diamond prices increase significantly as the color scale ascends towards colorless. While "J" color or better diamonds are well presented in either white gold or yellow gold settings, the surfaces of some yellow gold settings may be spot-plated with rhodium (a silver or "white" colored metal six times more costly than gold) to enhance the stone's sparkling appearance. The near colorless grades, "G-J," are generally accepted as providing the best compromise between cost and appearance. Stones rated "N" (very light yellow or brown) or lower are frequently set in yellow gold settings to partially neutralize the impact of their tinted color. Buyers should exercise caution when making purchases from jewelry merchants who don't know or won't state the color grade of the diamonds offered for sale. Buyers should also be aware that due to the lower value per carat of the small diamonds that commonly make up a diamond bracelet that these diamonds are less tightly graded and broader color range (two grades, such as G/H or I/J) specifications are therefore not uncommon.
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3. Cut. Cut refers to the proportions and shape of the finished diamond, and is the most important element in determining how much light the diamond will reflect. The finished diamond should be symmetrical. The table should be symmetrical, well-centered, and flat, not sloping. The culet should be centered when viewed from the top. The crown and pavilion facets should be properly aligned. And, the girdle should be perfectly round exhibiting a straight edge when viewed from the side. Ideally, the diamond should contain no extra facets, though extra facets may not have a significant adverse impact on its value depending on their shape and placement. From an aesthetic standpoint, a smaller, properly proportioned diamond is to be preferred over an improperly cut stone of greater carat weight and equal price. Acceptable feature proportions are calculated or expressed as a percentage of the diamond's girdle diameter.
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A brilliant or round cut diamond has 56 facets in addition to the table and culet surfaces. The "star" facets (8) are the three-pointed, triangular shaped facets which slope slightly from the table and form the top portion of the crown. The "kite" facets (8) are the four-pointed facets spanning the crown surface from the table to the girdle. The "upper girdle" facets (16) are the three-pointed, rounded bottom-edge facets on the crown surface that border the girdle. The "lower girdle" facets (16) are the elongated, three-pointed, rounded top-edge facets on the pavilion surface that border the girdle. And the "pavilion" facets (8) are the elongated, four-pointed facets spanning the pavilion surface from the girdle to the culet.
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Cut also effects the "fire" or "brilliance" exhibited by a diamond. Diamonds that are cut too thin or shallow allow the light to pass through the sides of the diamond and appear lifeless, dull, or flat in the center. Diamonds that are cut too deep or high do not reflect enough light back through the top of the diamond and appear to be dark in the center. Diamonds cut to ideal or within acceptable proportions appear to sparkle when rotated or turned from from side to side.
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However, not all natural diamond crystals are suitable for cutting to the desired proportions. Cut will determine the brilliance of both larger (0.25 points) and smaller diamonds (under .25 points) and can make an appreciable difference in the overall appearance of a diamond bracelet. Dark, dull, or flat looking diamond bracelets offered at "too good to be true" sale prices are often composed of diamonds of "I" clarity or lower, "S" color or lower, or that are cut either too shallow or deep to properly reflect light.
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4. Carat Weight and Size. Diamonds weights are measured in carats or fraction of carats called points, with 100 points equalling one carat or two-tenths (0.20) of a gram (i.e. 142, one-carat diamonds would weigh one (1) avoirdupois ounce). Diamond prices per carat weight increase exponentially as the average stone size gets larger given the same clarity and color grades. Stones under 0.30 carats or 30 points generally offer the most "glitterbang(TM)" for the money. To determine a brilliant (round) cut diamond's millimeter size (diameter) from its carat weight, Click Here. The Diamond Size Guide below closely approximates actual Millimeter sizes on a 800 x 640 monitor, however for determining actual sizes a millimeter gauge should always be used.
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5. Grading. Though documented diamond grading by a qualified gemologist recognized by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or other equally qualified authority is highly recommended when buying individual diamonds valued at $1000.00 or more, it is cost prohibitive and impractical to grade, as to clarity, color, cut, and carat weight, the sometimes dozens of small (less than 10 points) diamonds that often make up a diamond tennis bracelet. Buyers are also cautioned to pay particular attention to the name of the grading laboratory, as many relatively unknown certificates of varying credibility are available with similar sounding names. Other widely recognized gemologist/appraisor grading laboratories include the American Gem Society Laboratory (AGS or AGL), Gemological Appraisal Association (GAA), International Gemological Laboratory (IGL), Europeon Gemological Laboratory (EGL), Joseph Tenhagen, Inc., and the National Gem Appraising Laboratory (NGAL).
a. However, if the diamonds have good brilliance (light reflection), and the inclusions can not be readily seen by the naked eye in the greater majority (90%) of the stones, and the color appears clear or bright as opposed to being slightly tinted, clouded, milky, or yellow, it is highly likely that the stones are of at least "SI-2" quality and "J" color.
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b. Buyers are advised to examine bracelets from several different retailers that are represented as being "SI" quality and at least "J" in color. Bracelets that are composed of stones of lesser quality ("I" clarity or below and "K" color (tinted) or below) will then become more readily apparent to the buyer.
c. Bracelets that seem to be composed of a variety of mixed quality stones will often have an "arms length" appearance of being of an overall better grade. However, the better quality stones (clarity or color) comprising such a bracelet are often cut too shallow or deep, and as a result do not reflect light as well as properly proportioned stones.
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d. Though they may not be able to discern the fine differences within certain clarity and color grades, most reputable jewelry merchants will be able to evaluate a diamond tennis bracelet as to its general clarity (VS, SI, I, or lower) and color (G-J, K-M, N-R, or lower) characteristics, and can therefore give a qualified opinion as to its average stone quality.
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6. Cost. The primary factors determining cost are: color, clarity, cut, and carat weight. And while cut is important, color, clarity, and carat weight generally influence price to a substantially greater degree. With regards to color, clarity, or carat weight, diamond prices do not follow a linear progression (i.e. a two carat diamond is more than two times as expensive as a one carat diamond) with prices growing geometrically the more rare (higher color and clarity grades) and heavier the stone. The comparative price ratio chart linked below gives an approximate illustration of the comparative price ratios of the different color and clarity grades in relation to a K-color, I/1-clarity graded, 33 point (1/3 carat) stone, in five common sizes (i.e. .33, .50, .75, 1.00, and 2.00 carats). For example, for every dollar spent per carat for an I-1 clarity, K color, 33 point stone, the purchaser would spend 26 dollars for an IF clarity, D color, 200 point stone, all other factors (primarily cut) being equal. On this scale an I-1 clarity, K color, 33 point stone would cost $0.33 (1/3 x 1.00) while an IF clarity, D color, 200 point stone would cost 156 times as much ($0.33 x 3 x 26 x 2-carat) or $52.00. To view the Comparative Price Ratio Chart, Click Here.
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7. Settings. The most popular setting styles are: Prong, Channel, Bezel, and Pave. Though presenting varying degrees of difficulty to the setter, the setting style only minimally impacts the cost of diamond jewelry. A prong setting consists of several (2-6) small metal arms that are notched and bent to hold the stone in place. A channel setting utilizes a narrow metal rectangle, holding the stones in place on the opposite sides or girdle edges. A bezel setting utilizes a metal ring into which the the stone is pressed to hold it in place around the girdle. A pave setting is created by drilling small holes into the base of the setting to hold each diamond in place by its cutlet, and then hand-raising small beads of metal with a cutting tool to hold multiple stones (often 4 or more) in place, resulting in a final appearance of being one, much larger stone. Some settings can actually be used to hide a diamond's imperfections better than others (especially bezel), consequently, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to properly grade a set stone.
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DIAMOND TERMS GLOSSARY. Understanding certain common terms will be helpful when comparing values.
(1) "Carat" is a unit of weight measurement used for weighing diamonds. One (1) carat equals 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams, five (5) carats equal one (1) gram. 142 carats equals one (1) avoirdupois ounce.
(2) "Point" is a unit of weight equal to 1/100 of a carat, 100 points equalling one carat, and written as 1.00 carat.
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(3) "Table" is the flat top surface of a cut diamond. Table diameter is considered acceptable when between 51.4-66.0% of the girdle's diameter.
(4) "Crown" refers to the upper domed surface above the girdle of a cut diamond. The angle of the crown between the girdle and the table is considered acceptable at between 30.0-37.0 degrees. Crown height is considered acceptable when between 11.0-16.2% of the girdle's diameter.
(5) "Girdle" refers to the edge where the crown and pavilion of a cut diamond meet, marking the maximum diameter or width of the diamond. A girdle width of between 2.0-4.0% of the girdle's diameter is considered acceptable. Too sharp or thin a girdle increases the likelihood of chipping.
(6) "Pavilion" is the tapered underhalf or base of a cut diamond below the girdle. The angle of the pavillion from the girdle to the culet is considered acceptable when between 39.7-41.7 degrees. Pavilion depth is considered acceptable when between 41.5-45.5% of the girdle's diameter.
(7) "Culet" is the end point of the pavilion, finer being considered better, however a sharp point is susceptable to chipping.
(8) "Girdle Diameter" is the diameter of the diamond at the point where the crown and pavilion meet. Other dimension characteristics of a cut diamond are expressed as a percentage (%) of the girdle diameter.
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(9) "Depth" is the vertical height of the diamond from the table to the cutlet. Considered acceptable when between 57.0 to 65.0% of the girdle's diameter.
(10) "Clarity" measures the degree of visability of surface blemishes or internal inclusions of a diamond.
(11) "Color" measures the tint or internal color of a diamond, ranging from colorless to light brown or yellow.
(12) "Cut" refers the shape (round, square, emerald, pear, oval, marquis, etc.) and proportions of a cut diamond.
(13) "Brilliance" describes how well a diamond reflects white light.
(14) "Included" refers to the internal defects of a diamond, appearing as ash like flakes, cracks, clouds, or other imperfections.
(15) "Facets" are the small polished plane surfaces of a cut gem stone. A brilliant (round), full-cut diamond has 56 facets, while stones under 3 points can have as few as 16 (single cut).
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(16) "Eye Clean" Diamond appears to be free of surface blemishes and inclusions to the naked eye. Diamonds graded SI-2 or better will appear to be eye clean.
(17) "Cloud" Minor inclusion appearing milky rather than dark or ash like, only minimally detracting from the stone's appearance.
(18) "Blemish" Imperfections found on the surface of a Diamond.
(19) "Polish" Describes the lustre of a diamond's exterior finish.
(20) "TCW" Stands for total carat weight of all stones comprising a piece of jewelry.
(21) "TDCW" Indicates the total diamond carat weight of the jewelry item.
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(22) "Fluorescence" Refers to the emission of photoluminescence by a diamond detectable under a black light. Blue fluorescence can enhance a diamonds color, but other colors are considered less desireable.
(23) "Symmetry" Indicates if the diamond is true to its desired shape and is in balanced proportions.
(24) "Make" Describes the diamond's cut and proportions.
(25) "Fire" Describes the intensity and diversity of the light spectrum (rainbow colors) emanating from a diamond.
(26) "Finish" Refers to the quality of the diamond's polish and symmetry.
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COMPARATIVE SHOPPING. To achieve a valid comparison as to which fine jewelry merchant offers the best value on a multi-stone, diamond bracelet; Clients must compare similar diamond clarity grades (e.g. VVS, VS, SI, or I), color ratings (i.e D-F, G-J, K-M, N-R, S-Z, etc.), stone point sizes, total carat weights, and prices. And, while often representing only a small fraction of the overall cost, setting weights should be reasonably the same and gold karat ratings (i.e. 18k, 14k, or 10k) should match.
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DEEP DISCOUNT OFFERS. Deep discounted sales prices (25-70% off) are a strong indication of the poor value normally offered by the merchant's everyday prices. As it is highly unlikely that these merchants are losing money even at the discounted sales price, and it is easy to understand why most customers are skeptical as to the value they are actually receiving. In addition, once customers have become aware of the merchant's periodic discount sales, they are unlikely to ever feel comfortable about paying the merchant's full retail price at any time. Clients are far better off purchasing from merchants who offer everyday value pricing, and comparing the values offered to those "to good to be true" discount sales prices.
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WHOLESALE PRICE OFFERS. Only the product manufacturer can truly sell at or below the wholesale price, and no distributor or subsequent retailer can sell below wholesale without somebody suffering a loss on the items sold. As it is highly unlikely that any retailer will consistently sell at a loss and impossible to make up the difference with high volume, nearly all claims for selling at wholesale prices actually mean that the item is sold at a discount to its list price. Therefore, buyers should not be lured into a false sense of getting a good value simply because the retailer claims to be selling at wholesale prices.
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MANUFACTURERS' LIST PRICES. Manufacturers' list prices or suggested retail prices (MSRP) are usually highly inflated in relation to what the item can actually be purchased for. Full price, retail merchants generally charge the MSRP and then periodically offer the same item at significantly reduced discount sale prices. Comparing prices to the MSRP is an unreliable indicator of value, and it is highly recommended that such comparisons or claims be completely ignored. The only true measure of relative value is achieved by comparing apples to apples (in this case, color and clarity grades, cut, and carat weights) and actual sales prices to actual sales prices from various merchants.
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TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE OFFERS. If the offer sounds too good to be true, it is generally too good to be true; or the purchaser does not understand or appreciate what quality they are getting or recognize the difference. This is especially true when purchasing diamonds, as it is highly unlikely that the purchaser is going to get more than they paid for under any circumstances or from any merchant.
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SELECTION CONSIDERATIONS. Design popularity, manufacturing techniques (e.g. machine v. handmade, cast v. die-stamped, finishing methods, etc.), country of origin, and merchant profit margins all effect the diamond tennis bracelet's final cost, and a perfect match for price comparison purposes, other than price, may not always be possible. While there are some relatively standard styles in diamond bracelets, similar items from different manufacturers will vary slightly in design, setting gram weights, stone counts, and total diamond carat weights. As a general rule, merchant profit margins also tend to be higher on lighter settings with lower total diamond carat weights as compared to heavier settings with higher total diamond carat weights.
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SELECT WHAT YOU LIKE FIRST. We advise our Clients to select a general style or shape they like and then determine the comparative value of basically similar items with the same average diamond point sizes and total carat weights from different fine jewelry merchants to determine who offers the best value.
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MAKING YOUR SELECTION. Diamond tennis bracelets come in a large variety of link styles, total carat weights, and millimeter widths, with such preferences being highly personal to each wearer. As they also represent a sizable portion of one's lifetime jewelry budget, the buyer should be highly confident as to the wearer's personal tastes, even at the expense of sacrificing the element of surprise.
1. Name Brands. There is literally a diamond tennis bracelet to fit nearly every budget and practically no upper limit other than the imagination of the designer, the cost and availability of the diamonds utilized, or the thickness of the purchaser's wallet. Name brand jewelry items are most often associated with exclusive designs that are only available from a single supplier and are sold at a substantial premium. However, many lesser known manufacturers produce designs of equal quality and craftsmanship which are available at a better value.
2. Bracelet Durability. Link style, design, and shape play an important role in the item's durability, as some links will wear out more quickly than others with prolonged use. If the bracelet is to be worn extensively (i.e. more than one day per week), Clients are advised to discuss the durability of the selected link style with their fine jewelry merchant.
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3. Bracelet Sizes. The millimeter size (larger is heavier) of the setting and total diamond carat weight purchased is most often determined by the budget of the purchaser. However, heavier millimeter sizes are not necessarily better, with the choice usually being highly influenced by the personal preferences and expectations of the wearer. Diamond tennis bracelets sold by The Discount Gold Exchange(TM) are typically over ten (10) grams, projecting a "feel" of quality along with their intrinsic beauty. Bur regardless of diamond size or weight, diamond bracelets are always an elegant and ideal gift.
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4. Final Choice. Make your selection based on style preference, appearance, durability, and budget, and then compare prices. We're confident you will find that the prices at The Discount Gold Exchange (TM) will give you greater value for your dollar.
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BUYING FROM THE DISCOUNT GOLD EXCHANGE
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SHOPPING PRICES. We encourage our Clients to compare the values we offer to those of any other fine jewelry merchant. If you can find a better deal, buy from that merchant, but please call us immediately and let us know. It is our expectation that you will find our prices at or below the best prices offered on the internet, and that our prices will be significantly lower than the "best" discounted sales price offered by nearly all retail merchants, department stores, or warehouse outlets.
ITEMS PRICED BY WEIGHT. All diamond tennis bracelets are sold based on the gold setting weight to the nearest tenth (1/10) of a gram, the stated diamond carat weight in points, and the stone count of the bracelet. Actual setting gram weights and total diamond carat weights (points) may vary slightly from the stated average weights.
PRICE ADJUSTMENTS. Adjustments in the Client's final cost will be made based upon these slight variations. However, no adjustment greater than three percent (3%) above our stated prices will be made without obtaining our Client's prior approval.
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HIGHER CARAT WEIGHTS, GREATER VALUE. More expensively priced, higher carat weight diamond tennis bracelets will on average represent a better overall value based on the price per carat than lighter carat weight items. Our prices will also vary with fluctuations in the diamond and gold markets. And, certain style and setting designs may incur higher manufacturing costs or profit margins and therefore our prices must also reflect a higher cost for these items.
SHIPPING & HANDLING EXPENSES. S&H is never free. It must either be included in the item's overall cost or charged separately, but either way the Client is paying for S&H. Therefore, Clients should always include S&H charges in their total cost calculation when making their purchasing decision. The Discount Gold Exchange(TM) absorbs all S&H costs for diamond jewelry within its pricing structure.
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TO VIEW DIAMOND JEWELRY SELECTIONS, PLEASE CLICK ON ONE OF THE FOLLOWING LINKS.
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Main Page
For more information:
The Discount Gold Exchange
26 North Avenue
Pleasant Valley, NY 12569 US
Email: help@discountgoldexchange.com
(845) 527-7980
(800) 634-0930
Custom Web Site Design & Ecommerce
© Copyright 2008 The Discount Gold Exchange. All Rights Reserved.
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